The Pool Buyer's Guide

The stuff builders won't tell you — an honest take from the service guy who's worked on hundreds of pools.

Read this before you sign anything

Here's the thing nobody tells you when you're buying a pool: the builder is there for a few months. I'm there for the next ten years.

I service pools for a living, which means I see what happens after the build crew drives off, the corner that got cut where you couldn't see it, the "upgrade" that was pure markup, the equipment that was cheaper up front and costs you every month after. I clean up the aftermath of buying decisions every week.

None of that is to scare you off, a pool is one of the best things you can add to a house. But you're about to spend more than you will on anything short of the house itself, and you'll make most of the big decisions in a few short meetings.

So this walks you through it in the same order you'll live it: who to trust to build the thing, what to ask them, what's worth paying for, what happens the day they hand you the keys, and finally the decision I care about most, the heart of your pool, what you drop onto that equipment pad.

Here's the stuff I'd tell a friend. Let's go.

Step 1: Picking your builder

This is where it all starts, and it's the decision everything else rides on. A great builder can make a mediocre design work; a bad one can be very costly.

Green flags in a builder:

They'll come sit at your kitchen table. The good ones treat this like a relationship, not a transaction. If they'll come to you and talk it through on your turf, that says a lot.

They meet you at your budget and how you'll actually use the pool. Most people want something affordable and practical. A builder who listens to that — instead of steering you up — is one who'll still be easy to deal with in year two.

They welcome the hard questions. When you hit them with the questions in the next section, watch how they answer as much as what they say. Patience and a straight answer are the tell. Slowing down to explain means they've got nothing to hide.

They itemize the bid. Line by line — excavation, plumbing, equipment by brand and model, decking, coping, tile, startup, permits. The builder who itemizes everything is usually the one hiding nothing.

They will have someone review each stage of the build in person. You would be surprised how many builders you will never see after the sales meeting.

Red flags — slow down:

They still brag about the biggest, highest-end pool they ever built. That tells you they're selling their ego, not building for you. The market's moved toward practical and affordable — you want someone adapting to that, not chasing their trophy build.

The bid comes in thousands under everyone else. That's not a bargain, it's a warning. Something got left out (decking, startup, a smaller pump) or it's coming back as a change order. Too cheap up front can be expensive upgrades in the near future.

They get vague, impatient, or a little offended when you ask questions. Deflection now is deflection in year two.

They dodge on licensing and insurance. Ask for the license number and insurance certificate. A real builder hands it over without blinking. If someone gets weird about it, walk.

One more move, and it's free: find your own references, not theirs. Local Facebook groups and neighborhood pages are full of pool owners who'll tell you the unvarnished truth about who built their pool and whether they'd do it again — an unfiltered sample the builder can't curate. And remember, time in the business cuts both ways: experience is good, but not if they haven't kept up with today's equipment and today's buyer.

Step 2: What to actually ask builders

Once you've got builders in front of you, the meeting itself tells you a lot — if you ask the right things and watch how they answer. Copy these. Bring them with you.

• Can you itemize this bid line by line, including all equipment by brand and model?

• Are you on site between each phase to check on subcontractors' work?

• Who do I call for warranty or service in year two if my pump breaks?

• What's not included in this price that I should be budgeting for?

• Do you replace landscaping, or is it priced in? (The yard will be a muddy mess.)

Step 3: The upgrades — what to consider

The features are the fun part — this is where your pool starts to feel like yours. Almost all of them are worth having. The trick is spec'ing them right during the build, because a small decision at the plumbing stage is the difference between a feature that's easy to live with and one that's a pain on a routine basis. Here's how to get each one right.

Water & fire features

Bubblers — Great feature, low cost, hard to go wrong. Just ask that they be plumbed with an isolated shutoff at the equipment pad so you can control them on their own when you dont want splashing water movement.

Shear descent waterfall — Beautiful feature, and very doable. It just needs a lot of waterflow, so I recommend a dedicated pump and a dedicated plumbing line. That does two things: it lets you turn the feature off by itself, and it keeps the plumbing accessible. Here's why that matters — features need service eventually, and if the plumbing is buried where you can't reach it, that repair means tearing up your waterfall wall or your deck to get to it. With an accessible shutoff valve and a way to clean it out when a rock gets jammed, that same repair is quick and cheap. Same gorgeous feature, wildly different cost to own — and the only difference is one decision the builder makes during the plumbing rough-in. So ask for it specifically: "Will this feature have its own shutoff and plumbing access I can reach?" Get that right and you'll love it.

One thing worth knowing so you're not surprised later: if your features share a pump with an attached spa, they usually can't run while you're heating the spa — all the water's being routed through the spa, so there's nothing left to push the feature. It's not a defect, just how the plumbing works. If running features and spa at the same time matters to you, mention it early and your builder can spec the equipment for it.

Lionheads / sconces — Great look, and an easy yes. Just ask for individual valves so you can tune the flow to each outlet — that's what makes them look even and dialed-in.

Firebowls — They look fantastic and they're a real showpiece. One thing to plan for: the igniters can rust over time, so covering them like you would a gas grill goes a long way. And since gas lines and valves are pricier to repair, it's worth making sure they're installed with reasonable access.

Deck jets — You've seen these: the little arcing streams of water that shoot from the deck into the pool, and they look incredible. I'll be straight with you, though — of all the features, these are the highest-maintenance, so go in with your eyes open. Small debris clogs them easily, so a few rocks or some PVC shavings can leave you with a jet that sputters. And if one slows down enough that the water doesn't reach the pool, it can drain water where you don't want it. Each jet is also more plumbing under your deck — more joints, more fittings. None of that means you can't have them, but if it's the "wow" factor you're after, know that there are lower-maintenance ways to get a similar effect.

Rock features / grottos — These make a real statement. Two things to plan for: they can shed a bit into the pool over time, which means a little more cleanup, and they can be tricky to reach when you're vacuuming or skimming. If you go for a rock waterfall, add a dedicated pump for strong waterflow over the rocks and circulate regularly — that keeps algae from getting a foothold and keeps it looking sharp.

Design & structure considerations

Dig depth — Anything deeper than 6 ft gets harder to keep circulating and clean, so go deep only if you'll really use it. I like two shallow ends so no part of the pool goes unused — though that's a preference to think through based on how you'll swim. Another option few people consider: a "kiddie pool" area with a few returns or bubblers, separated by a slight spillover into the main pool. It looks like a spa but sits at only half a foot deep. My parents built this and it gets used constantly — by my kids, and by adults who want to lounge in shallow water or sit with their feet in and a drink in hand.

Raised hot tub vs. level with the pool — If you want a waterfall look, raised is a great choice. Just keep in mind the wider that waterfall, the more water you're pulling from your pool's circulation, since the pool typically shares a pump with the spa. A little planning on the spillway width keeps both the look and good pool circulation.

Infinity-edge spa (raised, with spillover on all sides) — Stunning when it's done right. Two things to know going in: it's a little harder to get into and to clean because of the reach, and for that shimmer effect to work you need level sides and strong even flow to push water over all four edges at once. Spec the flow for it and it delivers; underpower it and some spots can look dry instead of shimmery.

Surfaces

Plaster type — I won't push any particular brand, but I'll say this: plaster with aggregate in it tends to stain and mottle a lot less than dark traditional plasters. Traditional light colored plasters are fine as a more affordable option. Notes on the common colors: white will show more stains, light greys hide a lot more. I say dark colors especially blues as a no-go due to the fact that they rarely stay uniformly colored after curing. Your water will actually look more Caribbean-blue with a lighter plaster that reflects more sunlight. Lastly if you have young kids/grandkids, you may consider some sea creature tiles or mosaics embedded in the plaster.

Equipment upgrade considerations

Color lights — Definitely worth including. They can occasionally go out early, but that's usually within the warranty window, so you're covered.

Heat pump / chiller — Great for nudging your water temperature a few degrees either way. Anywhere that gets into the 90s will appreciate one, unless you've got a lot of shade — and as a bonus, cooler water is easier to keep sanitized.

Robotic cleaner — My tip: do your own research and pick one you like after the build. That way, if there's ever a problem, you can take it back to the pool store for repair or warranty instead of it being tangled up with the build.

Mechanical pool cover — These make a lot of sense up north. Down here in the south, they tend to cause more headaches than they solve, and very few techs work on them if they break — so in most cases you'd come out ahead putting that money toward a year of pool service instead.

Gas heater — Works really well for heating a spa, or an entire pool by tens of degrees. Just know there's a lot of tech inside with a typical lifespan around 8–10 years. Great if you'll use it; skip it if you're on the fence.

Variable-speed pump — Yes, get this one. It costs more up front, but you can run it at a fraction of the power of a single-speed pump — dozens of dollars a month in savings. Give it time and that savings pays back the pump and then keeps going.

Automation — The latest tech lets you control everything from your phone, anywhere, which is genuinely handy in the right situation — especially if you travel a lot or you're keeping an eye on a second property. Just know it leans on your WiFi. If you're mostly home, simple timers can turn your pump on and off without the added cost. It really comes down to your situation.

Salt vs. chlorine — Both are good; they're just different. Salt is more hands-off with a low monthly cost, though the system is pricier to repair. Chlorine dispensers are cheap and rarely break, but you'll spend more each month on the chlorine itself. Pick based on how hands-on you want to be. (I have a whole seperate blog for this)

The general advice on upgrades

Upgrades and tech are great — just remember that simpler is always cheaper to maintain. Stuff will break eventually, even when it's in the shade, so plan ahead: leave room to work on things and room to replace them. If the pool guy has no space to reach the piping or swap out a pump, that turns an easy job into a hard/expensive one. And try to keep your equipment all one brand where you can — it makes warranties simpler and makes it easier to find a single pool pro who knows how to fix everything on your pad.

Step 4: The costs that are often overlooked

The number on the contract is not the number you'll spend. Here's what tends to get forgotten. None of this is a reason not to build — it's just the difference between "I planned for this" and "wait, what?" Plan for it.

Startup and first fill — Depending where you live, this can add up with water pricing. Someone also has to turn your equipment on, dial it in mechanically and digitally, and balance the water. Check what's included with your startup — or whether it's included at all.

Your first year of maintenance — Whether you DIY or hire out, budget for it. This is real money people forget. Pool service varies a lot by region, but in the Southeast you're looking at around $175–250 per month + chemicals. Shop around and ask what's included.

Chemicals — A 50lb bucket of chlorine runs about $185 at the time I'm writing this. It might last a month or several — it depends on water balance, sunlight, rain, debris, and how many people are swimming.

A higher electric/gas bill — Your pool equipment may be a significant power sink depending on what you have, of course usage can be optimized just like you might do with your A/C.

The fence / barrier — A lot of areas require a safety fence or barrier, and it's often not in the pool bid. Check your local rules early.

Landscaping repair — A build crew and their equipment will tear up your yard. Putting it back together — grass, fence, all of it — is often on you.

Decking — Builders sometimes quote a pool with minimal decking to start with a lower number, but square footage adds up fast. They may also measure from the water's edge rather than where the concrete starts, so measure your deck space yourself and confirm where they're measuring to and from.

Gas / power supply lines — If a line has to run across your house, this gets pricey. Think about where your equipment is going and where it's pulling power and gas from, especially with a gas heater.

Step 5: The handoff — what happens the day they hand you the keys

This is the step almost nobody warns you about, and it's the one I get called into the most. Here's how it usually goes: the pool gets finished, the builder fills it, and then... they're gone. Full pool, set of keys, good luck. And a lot of new owners don't realize that the moment the hose shuts off, the clock is already running.

So before you sign anything, get a straight answer to this:

Who's taking care of this pool for the first stretch — you, or them?

Some builders do the startup and babysit the water for the first few weeks while everything settles. Some hand you a full pool and drive off. Neither is wrong — but you need to know which one you're getting before the build, not the day the water's done. If it's on you from hour one, you want a plan (or a pool guy's number) ready to go, not to be scrambling.

A brand-new pool needs attention from the start — not "whenever you get around to it."

Fresh water and a fresh surface are needy right at the beginning. This is not a "let it ride for a few weeks while I figure it out" situation. Get the water dialed in from the time it's full, because neglecting those first weeks can do damage to a brand-new pool that you're then stuck living with. I won't turn this into a chemistry lesson (that's a whole thing on its own), but understand this: the early neglect is the expensive kind.

Understand your equipment before you start pushing buttons.

This is where the expensive mistakes live. Running the wrong piece of equipment the wrong way — or not knowing what a setting actually does — is how a $0 problem becomes a repair bill in an afternoon. You don't need to be an expert. You do need to know what's on your pad and what it does before you start touching things.

And that's the perfect place to land, because knowing your equipment starts with knowing what's on the pad in the first place — which brings us to the last decision, and the biggest one.

Step 6: Now the big one — the equipment pad

Okay. You've picked your builder. You've read the bid, asked the hard questions, sorted the upgrades from the markup, planned for the costs nobody warned you about, and you know what the handoff's going to look like.

There's one decision left. And it's the one I care about most — because this is the part I actually deal with.

That little concrete pad next to your pool holds the pump, the filter, the heater, the automation, and more. It's where your monthly costs and your future repair bills are decided. It's also the part buyers understand the least, which is exactly why it's the easiest place to overspend without ever realizing it. And here's the thing that drives me nuts:

These decisions will follow you for a decade, and most people make them in about fifteen minutes.

The pump alone can be the biggest power draw at your whole house — or not — depending on one choice. The filter you're handed determines how often you're out there cleaning it for years. Automation done right makes the pool effortless; done wrong, you paid for features you'll never touch. And salt vs. chlorine is a real fork in the road with a real cost tradeoff nobody explains.

This is the one place I'd tell you to slow all the way down. Take your time here, ask what each piece actually costs to own — not just to install — and make sure whatever goes on that pad is something you understand and can live with for the next ten years.

You've done the hard part already. Don't let the last fifteen minutes of a two-hour meeting undo it.

If you want a deep dive on equipment check the blog and I'll break down each piece simply.

Good luck with the build. You know where to find me if you need help.

-Dakota

This guide is general education from a working pool service pro, not a substitute for your local codes, a licensed builder's contract, or professional advice on your specific project. Always verify local permit and safety-barrier requirements for your area.